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Connect the bare ground wires to the grounding screw on the baseboard heater's metal frame. Install the cover plate on the splice box and turn the branch circuit breaker back on. Based in Colorado Springs, Colo. Walch spent 40 years working in the electrical trades and holds an Associate of Applied Science in applied electrical engineering technology from Alvin Junior College.

Skip to main content. Warning Always turn off the power at the breaker panel before working on an electrical circuit. References 2 Home Depot: White-Rogers Thermostat Installation Instructions.

Installing Thermostat on baseboard heater

Resources 2 Fine Home Building: Installing Electrical Boxes and Receptacles. Accessed 18 January Home Guides SF Gate. If you don't know where the other end of that one cable goes, there is no way to know where it should be terminated. If it goes to another heater, it will terminate on T-1 and T If it feeds another thermostat, it will go to L1 and L2. If it is an abandoned wire, it doesn't terminate at all. Sign in or sign up and post using a HubPages Network account. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites.

One pair of wires powers both the stat and, after passing through the stat, the heater. The other pair powers the heater alone. Unfortunately, after seeing your description, you don't seem to have two "sets" of wires coming through the wall, merely one wire to feed the stat and one to feed the heater. All devices, whether it be a light, a heater, or a plug in vacuum cleaner requires at least two wires.

In the case of a volt device one wire is "hot" and the other is a "neutral". In the case of a volt device both are "hot" wires, but they are NOT the same "hot"; they come from different sources in your breaker panel. It very much sounds like you have one "hot" coming into your stat from the heater, and that wire will be "hot" all the time. Most likely the one labeled "L".

What you need

The one labeled "T" is a "switch leg"; it is either "hot" or not depending on whether the thermostat has switched it on or off. There is no second "hot" and there is no neutral. Just two wires that the thermostat will either connect together or disconnect to turn the heater on and off.

Without a second "hot" there is no power to run the stat. Doing as you suggest, running a pigtail from L to L2 is the exact same thing as connecting L, L1 and L2 all together with one wire nut; you only have one wire L to do the job of two. From your description, then, you can either run your thermostat on battery alone assuming it has a backup battery, and most do , or you can purchase a mechanical thermostat that does not require power to run any electronics.

Using the battery is unlikely to be a satisfactory solution as it will likely need replaced every week or two. The only other option is to pull more wire between the heater and the thermostat. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but that is what I'm seeing from your description. Ok, I think I'm starting to understand. I have an electronic thermostat, and it sounds like one set of wires powers the heater, and the other set powers the thermostat?

Thanks for the quick reply btw, I really appreciate it. If the thermostat is of the mechanical variety it does not need voltage to operate any electronics in it then simply connect one of the two wires to through the thermostat while the other one passes straight through without ever touching the thermostat.

If the thermostat is electronic it will need both wires to power the thermostat. The second wire, however, does not need to be switched through it. Cut the second wire, then, and splice a short "pigtail" - a 6" piece of wire in with a wire nut. The two "second" wires incoming and outgoing will now have an extra short wire attached to them; terminate that wire on the "line" side of the thermostat.

The "load" side of the second pole will not have anything attached. If you are unfortunate enough to have a system where the power goes to the heater first, then a 2 wire cable to the thermostat one "line" and one "load" you will have to either have a purely mechanical stat or depend on a battery to keep it operating. Or, of course, pull a new 3 wire cable through the wall. If this doesn't answer your question - if I've misunderstood your problem - let me know and I'll try again.

Hi Wilderness, well done. This is the best article on line voltage thermostats I've seen in hours of searching the web. I'm wondering if you can go into more detail on installing a 2 pole thermostat on a single pole system.

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  • Install Your Own Line Voltage Baseboard Heater Thermostat | Dengarden.

Info on such a project is very hard to find, and of course, that's what I'm working with. If your breaker panel is sparking you have problems that urgently need fixed. Fire is a high possibility and sparking will damage the panel as well.

  1. How to Install a Baseboard Heater Thermostat.
  2. Baseboard Heater or Line Voltage Thermostats.
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  5. Install Your Own Line Voltage Baseboard Heater Thermostat.
  6. Most home breakers simply pull straight out at the center of the box and then slide out from under a clip on the outside. Some have a screw in the center that holds that side of the breaker in. You must, of course, turn the main power off, but be aware that parts of the panel will still be hot!

    Remove the wire from the outside of the breaker, snap it out and take it to the store for an exact replacement - breakers are not interchangeable between manufacturers. Never, ever change the ampacity of a breaker - a 15 amp breaker MUST be replaced with a 15 amp. It won't do me much good around here, but I enjoyed the lesson.

    My circuit box is all messed up. How do you change out the breakers? Sorry if you already have one about it and I didn't notice. Other product and company names shown may be trademarks of their respective owners. HubPages and Hubbers authors may earn revenue on this page based on affiliate relationships and advertisements with partners including Amazon, Google, and others.

    How to Hook Up Two Baseboard Heaters to One Thermostat

    To provide a better website experience, dengarden. Please choose which areas of our service you consent to our doing so. For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Baseboard Heater or Line Voltage Thermostats Most home heat and cooling thermostats are of the low voltage variety, but baseboard heaters and many other totally electric heaters use a line voltage thermostat.

    Mechanical Baseboard Heater Thermostats The cheapest of the line voltage units, these thermostats operate on mechanical principles rather than digitally. Digital Baseboard Heater Thermostats These are a little more expensive that the cheaper mechanical style, but will normally maintain the temperature of the room closer to the set number. Programmable Baseboard Heater Thermostats Programmable thermostats are the ultimate in comfort and energy savings. Is saving energy important enough to you to pay the extra for a programmable thermostat? Only in the price difference is small. You will most likely be working on circuits that carry volts; a shock from this voltage can be deadly and even a simple shorted wire near fingers will produce a very nasty burn.

    An electric baseboard heater may operate at volts. Take the cover off the thermostat and remove the screws that attach it to the junction box. Without touching any of the wires, lift the thermostat away from the box.

    How to Install an Electric Baseboard Heater Thermostat

    Make sure power is off. Place a circuit tester or multimeter across the ground wire and each of the other wires in turn to make sure there is no voltage flowing in the lines. If the ground wire is attached to a metal junction box, you can substitute the box for the ground wire when testing. Label the wires as you disconnect them. Mark which wires go to the terminals labeled "line" and which go to the ones labeled "load.

    How to Install a Baseboard Heater Thermostat |

    Attach one lead of a continuity tester to one "line" wire and the other lead to the "load" wire on the same side. Turn the dial from high to low. If the thermostat is good, the tester remains lit in both positions. Repeat on the other set.